Well, legally speaking that’s true. If you get in a car accident while driving in Mexico, without Mexican car insurance, you’re supposed to go to jail until the claim is settled or you can show enough funding to cover the total cost of the accident. And no, your U.S. car insurance or traveler’s insurance through your credit card isn’t supposed to work either. Luckily it’s Mexico and paying cash to the police at the scene is just as good as Mexican insurance.
My body ached from the previous day’s climbs — we managed 8 pitches in the upper 5.11’s in just 6 hours. The skin on my fingers was tender. My toes were begging and pleading to not be imprisoned within the confines of climbing shoes again. Afterall, I had already climbed over 5,000 vertical feet. Despite agreeing to climb Time Wave Zero that night, it almost came as a surprise when at 4:00 in the afternoon, Jeremy said, “Well, we better get going.” — “Wait, am I actually going to do this? Am I ready?” I had never been so nervous to go climbing before in my life. [Read more…]
I’ve been extremely happy ever since booking my flight home.
Don’t get me wrong, I’m extremely sad to be leaving Thailand, too, but rather than my brain wandering to climbing areas and surreal beaches during any lapse of focused attention, it’s wondering to mountains and autumn leaves.
It’s time to come home.
When you think of happiness, what comes to mind? Puppies? A married couple together for 55 years? Seeing your baby?
For me, it’s burritos. Burritos make me happy.
What I’m about to say is not novel or mind-blowing. But when it hits you like a ton of bricks, you’re all like, “f*ck, why didn’t I do this sooner?!?!!” (Or why did I ever remove myself from this situation?)
First off, just being in a climbing gym, when you can’t climb the whole time, and have to sit there and watch while other people climb and the music gets you amped, is torture. Good torture. [Read more…]
I’ve missed you lately.
I miss the way you make me feel. The way you make my heart flutter. You challenge me to be better, yet are forgiving when I need to slow down. You bring out my best, even when I’m at my worst.
The way you can take everything else away that’s on my mind and just need to be there with you. Wholly. Entirely.
If you’re looking for a beta spray on those routes, this is not your post. Check out this guy’s Hallett Peak Trip Report. I didn’t see it until I got back, but he did a wonderful job and took all the relevant pictures that we did not. If I had seen it before we left, I’m sure our trip would have went a little more smoothly.
Nonetheless, for my first alpine, I think everything went really well and no real scary spots.
I’ve been climbing in the Black Hills over the 4th of July for three years in a row now. This trip is all about relaxing, climbing, and enjoying who you’re with, not neccessarily about pushing your limits all the time. We keep it low stress, highly entertaining, and eat way more than we should. Not once have I written a comprehensive trip report about this. I always mean to, but when I come back, other things get in the way. I’m gonna try something a little different this year: write it as I go.
I was climbing at a famous off-width crag in Wyoming by the name of Vedauwoo (Ever heard of it? You should, I wrote about climbing in Vedauwoo with Pamela Shanti Pack last year.), and something bizarre happened. I only sent two routes all weekend, and it was arguably some of the most fun I’ve ever had at a crag.
Ko Samet Island — Thailand
Ko Samet is a small island just a short 3.5 – 4 hour bus ride from Bangkok. Probably the only beach that’s closer is Phattaya, and well, if you know anything about Pattaya, the entire city is basically a red light district where a lot of nasty things go on — and I don’t just mean PG-13 “nasty” like prostitution, but more like the “nasty” of NC-17, illegal stuff like the buying and selling of human beings. [Read more…]
It’s hard to believe I’ve been in Thailand for two months already. My original 30-day tourist exemption is long over, and I extended that an additional 30 days by renewing at the Chiang Mai Immigration Office. I certainly could have done a border run and got renewed for another 30-days for free, but here are a few reasons I didn’t:
It’s one thing to write a post as soon as you get back from a life-changing, completely eye opening vacation/experience/location/all above, it’s another to write a ‘review’ 4 months later.
When I got back from my trip to the Kingdom of Jordan with Columbia Sportswear, I could not put into words the things I saw, felt, experienced, and lived. I failed to do, what I claim to do best. But can you blame me?
The flow of the line should be smooth. It should be picturesque. It should look like moving art. It should feel like you are water flowing up the side of the rock. [Read more…]
It all started at 1:00am on Friday morning under a cloudless sky and a nearly full moon.
We were pulling into Indian Creek, and Shay wanted to climb an ultra classic route, Generic Crack, in the moonlight by headlamp. Why should I deny anybody else’s joy and life experiences just because I’m a little tired? [Read more…]
Let me say this before the internet climbing police come with their torches and pitchforks:
This has nothing to do with ignorance of safety.
Using Ignorance to Climb Harder
I can count three times in my illustrious climbing career where being ignorant of my climb has helped me with a huge mental and/or physical block in my climbing. [Read more…]
Classics in Eldorado and a Cruiser Day in Clear Creek
Two weeks ago, I had the pleasure of climbing two Eldorado classics, Rewritten and The Bastille crack, in one day. And then we did some more pitches on top of that for 15 total.
The next day was supposed to be chill in Clear Creek. We started later, ended sooner, and still got another 13 pitches.
GoPro Mountain Games
As you all remember (RIGHT?!?!), I was training extensively for the GoPro Mountain Games Citizen’s Bouldering Competition for the past two weeks. While I did not stick to my proposed training plan (as it was written 2 weeks out), I feel like the adjustments I made along the way prepared me perfectly for the competition, and I “peaked” at the exact right time.
While I didn’t place well (I’ll get to that), I had a great time climbing, spectating, talking, meeting, and running into friendly faces while I was there.
It started with the drive. Make sure to be as ridiculous as possible.